What’s the deal? Restaurants specialising in modern West African food aren’t exactly ten a penny in London. Neither are restaurants as good as Adejoké ‘Joké’ Bakare’s Chishuru. The Nigerian-born chef-owner won the Brixton Kitchen competition in 2019 and opened her first restaurant in 2020. Chishuru is a stunning introduction to the richly complex cuisine of Bakare’s West African heritage. Dishes like mimri oku (spicy broth) and kekefia (hake) with plantain fondant transport your tastebuds to exciting new places. You’ll think about the textures and flavours long after you’ve finished eating. The set-menu format (£28 per person for lunch and £45 for dinner) means you get a tour of the ingredients and spices of Bakare’s native country, while her sheer talent and charismatic service will steal your heart. Right now, there’s no other restaurant in London quite like Chishuru. It deserves our top spot and your attention.
Order this Chishuru offers a changing set menu but the bavette steak – cooked pink, flecked with pickled mushrooms and dusted with yaji, the suya spice blend of chilli, ginger, garlic and onion – is a thing of beauty.